Refined Cerabellina wax

INCI: Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax

Cera Bellina is a hydrophilic derivative of natural beeswax in which the free fatty acids have been converted to polyglycerols esters through the use of heat and vacuum. Elimination of the free fatty acid functionalities in beeswax improves the oil gelling and oil retention capability.

Products formulated with Cera Bellina and natural as well as synthetic oils produce remarkably stable, smooth gels. This property is also beneficial in emulsion products, where its hydrophylic properties enable it to act as a coemulsifier and its rheology modifying properties lend increased formulation stability. In decorative cosmetics, Cera Bellina helps to break up pigment agglomerates by forming a gel network thereby maintaining an even distribution of ingredients. Cera Bellina also suppresses the fatty acid, fatty alcohol migration and oil syneresis in finished stick formulas.

Cera Bellina has the unique ability to give stability by forming non-granular gels of liquid oils. Besides the consistency regulating properties of beeswax, Cera Bellina has the remarkable capability of inhibiting crystallization in the oil phase and therefore enhancing stability by preventing the formation of granules. This attribute can eliminate the graininess or rice granule effect that can occur when using shea and other natural butters in anhydrous formulations such as lip balms and lotion bars.

Cera Bellina also greatly improves stability in dispersions utilizing non-soluble components, such as organic and inorganic pigments, as well as mineral and polymer extenders.

Benefits

• Imparts a smooth, satin-like feeling to the skin
• Solubility and safety similar to beeswax
• Suitable for sensitive skin
• Emulsion stabilizer
• Functions like a low HLB coemulsifier
• Gelling agent for oils
• Thickener in anhydrous products
• Pigment stabilizer

Applications

• Lip balms and lotion bars
• Emulsions (oil-in-water and water-in-oil)
• Thickener for anhydrous, oil-based serums
• Oil gel products
• Color cosmetics.

When working to replace a portion of the oils in existing formulations with Cera Bellina for its rheological properties, it is suggested to add Cera Bellina at 10-15% of the oil phase to start.

When gelling oils, best results are obtained if cooling is slow, especially for less viscous oils. The specification for congealing temperature of Cera Bellina is 145.5 – 163.5°F. This wide range can result in some differences in viscosity depending on usage rate. It is helpful to make note of the congealing temperature of the Cera Bellina lot you receive and do small batch tests to determine if usage rate needs adjusting in your formulation, if the temperature from lot to lot is significantly different.

The % of Cera Bellina needed to gel specific oils will vary, depending on the oil and the congealing temperature of the Cera Bellina

Application 

‌1. Emollient: Reduces moisture loss from the skin by forming a protective film. Commonly used in skincare products such as creams and serums.‌

‌2. Emulsifier: Helps stabilize oil-water mixtures. Commonly found in products such as lotions and serums.‌

‌3. Texture Conditioner: Improves the feel of the product, making it smoother and less sticky.‌